This Christmas I designed this to go with the play food that I crocheted.  I ultimately got the idea from here.  I was originally going to make one of those and put everything in a basket.  But I wasn’t satisfied with that idea for long term storage.  As I thought about storage I decided on a plastic 4 drawer cart.  One made by Sterilite.   After deciding how I was going to Sterilite 4 Drawer Storage Cart White. Additional View 1.Opens in a new window.store the stuff I thought about the topper.  I wanted it to be a bit more 3-dimensional, and I wanted knobs that turned.  So, I decided to crochet a topper for it.  I attached the whole thing to the top with only the prickly side of sticky back velcro.

 Here is a picture of it completed but still with my yarnie stuff inside of it.  For sizing I had to be sneaky and act like I bought it to store my yarnie stuff in.  Actually I liked it for yarnie storage so much that when I can afford it I plan to buy myself another, lol.

The faucets turn, which the children think is very cool.  The hardest part was getting the faucet itself right.  It’s not perfect, but it’s there at least.

Now for the pattern.  I’ll start with the topper.

Crochet Play Kitchen Counter/Topper:

  1. Ch 67 with J hook
  2. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch 1, turn. 66 sc.
  3. Hdc in each stitch across.Ch 1, turn. 66 hdc.
  4. Repeat #3 for 27 rows.
  5. Hdc next 12, dc next 42, hdc next 12. Ch 1, turn.
  6. Sc next 3, hdc next 4, dc next 7, trc next 38, dc next 7, hdc next 4, sc next 3.  Ch 1, turn.
  7. Sc blo next 66, do NOT sc in corner, sc evenly 44 across short edge, do NOT sc in corner, sc next 66, do NOT sc in corner, sc 44 evenly across short edge, do NOT sc in corner, join with slip stitch.
  8. Do NOT turn. Sc across decreasing 4 times evenly, hdc across next side decreasing 3 times evenly, hdc across next edge decreasing 4 times evenly, hdc across final edge decreasing 3 times evenly. Fasten off, weave in ends.
  9. Surface slip stitch in leftover loops across front edge to make a nice fold edge, surface slip stitch across short edge in beginning of first row (there won’t be any loops, you just have to eye-ball it), surface slip stitch in loops across next long edge, surface slip stitch across final short edge.  Join, fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Now you may end up having to add or subtract a row or chain depending on your tension.  Try it on the top as you go.  After your topper is completed apply some sticky back velcro (the prickly side only) onto the edges of your cart (not the top edges, but the side edges).  Make sure you get the corners and the center.  You can then place your topper onto your cart and it will stay.

 Burner (Make 2):

“I” hook, work in a spiral, do NOT join rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round, moving it up each round.

  1. In a magic ring make 10 sc. Cinch ring tight. (I knot mine in the back)
  2. Make 2 sc in each sc around. (10 sc)
  3. Sc next stitch, 2 sc next stitch around. (30 sc)
  4. Sc next 2 stitches, 2 sc next stitch around. (40 sc)
  5. Sc next 3 stitches, 2 sc next stitch around. (50 sc)
  6. Sc next 4 stitches, 2 sc next stitch around. (60 sc)
  7. Sc in each stitch around. (60 sc)
  8. Sc in each stitch around. (60 sc)
  9. Sc in each stitch around. (60 sc) Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto topper.
  10. Starting in the middle and with contrasting color, surface slip stitch around in a spiral following the rows of sc around all the way to the outside edge.  Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Stove Knobs (Make 2):

“G” hook, use a stitch marker to mark first stitch of each round.

  1. Make 7 sc into a magic ring, join.  Cinch closed tight.  (I knot mine in the back) (7 sc)
  2. Ch 1, 2 sc in each stitch around, join. (14 sc)
  3. Ch 1, sc next stitch, 2 sc next stitch around, join. (21 sc)
  4. Ch 1, sc next 2 stitches, 2 sc next stitch around, join. (28 sc)
  5. Ch 1, in BLO sc in each stitch around, join.  (28 sc)
  6. Ch 1, sc in each stitch around in both loops, join. (28 sc)
  7. Ch 1, in BLO sc in each of next two stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches around. Join. (21 sc)
  8. Ch 1, in both loops again, sc next stitch, sc decrease in next two stitches around. Join. (14 sc)
  9. Ch 1, sc decrease next two stitches around, join. (7 sc)
  10. Stuff, cinch tight to close.  Fasten off and weave in ends.
  11. Knob topper (make 2):  Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch and across. (7 sc).  Ch 1, sc across (7 sc) for 5 rows.  you will end up having 6 rows total.  Fold piece in half and sew up short sides, lightly stuff and sew up long side.  Sew this piece onto the top of a knob, centering it. 
  12. Sew a button onto the bottom of each knob. My buttons are about 1-1/8″

Sink knobs (Make 2):

“G” hook, use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Work in spiral or if you prefer join each round.  I can’t honestly remember what I did, but I “think” I worked this in a spiral because my notes don’t say anything about joining.

  1. Make 7 sc into a magic ring. Cinch closed tight. (I knot mine in the back) (7 sc)
  2. Sc 2 in each stitch around (14 sc)
  3. Sc next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch around. (21 sc)
  4. BLO sc in each stitch around. (21 sc)
  5. In both loops, sc in each of next two stitches, 2 sc in next stitch. (28 sc)
  6. Sc in each stitch around. (28 sc)
  7. Sc in each stitch around. (28 sc)
  8. Sc in each stitch around. (28 sc)
  9. Sc in each stitch around. (28 sc)
  10. Sc in each of next two stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches around. (21 sc)
  11. BLO sc in each stitch around. (21 sc)
  12. In both loops again, sc in next stitch, sc decrease in next two stitches around. (14 sc)
  13. Sc decrease around. (7 sc)  Fasten off, stuff firmly and cinch closed tightly.  Weave in ends.
  14. Take a length of yarn the same color as your knob and thread a yarn needle.  Pinch the side of your knob creating a ridge, sew along ridge tightly to keep ridge.  On the opposite side repeat for a matching ridge.  Then create two more ridges in the same manner to complete the four ridges. 
  15. With red, embroider an H on the top of one knob, and with blue embroider a C on the other knob.  Sew buttons onto the bottom of each knob.  My buttons are 1-1/8″.

Faucet Plate:

“J” hook

  1. Chain 16, hdc in 2nd chain from hook and across, turn. (14 hdc)
  2. Ch 1, hdc across, turn. (14 hdc)
  3. Ch 1, hdc across, turn. (14 hdc)
  4. Ch 1, sc across; sc-hdc-2 dc-hdc-sc on short end; sc across long end; sc-hdc-2 dc-hdc-sc on short end, join. (32 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc)
  5. Do not turn, slip stitch around. Join, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew onto topper.

Sink:

“I” hook, mark first stitch of round (when working in rounds)

  1. Chain 27, sc in 2nd chain from hook and across, turn. (26 sc)
  2. Ch 1, 2 sc in first stitch, sc across next 24 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.  Turn. (28 sc)
  3. Ch 1, 2 sc in first stitch, sc across next 26 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch. Turn. (30 sc)
  4. Ch 1, sc across.  Turn.  (30 sc)
  5. Repeat row 4 for 21 rows.  You will have worked 22 rows with no increase. Turn. (30 sc) If you want your sink wider feel free to add more rows here.
  6. Ch 1, sc decrease first two stitches, sc across next 26 stitches, sc decrease last two stitches. Turn. (28 sc)
  7. Ch 1, sc decrease in first two stitches, sc across in next 24 stitches, sc decrease in last two stitches. (26 sc)
  8. Do not turn, ch 1, sc around piece completely.  Join.
  9. Slip stitch around piece, join.  Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto topper.

Faucet:

“G” hook.  Worked in spiral.  Use a stitch marker to mark first stitch of each round.  Stuff pipes as you go for ease.

Short spout:

  1. Make 7 sc into a magic loop. (7 sc) Cinch tight magic loop (I knot it in the back too)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch around (14 sc)
  3. BLO sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  4. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  5. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  6. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  7. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  8. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc) Fasten off and weave in end.

Tall pipe:

  1. Sc 8 in magic ring. (8 sc) Cinch tight (I knot it in the back)
  2. 2 sc in each stitch around. (16 sc)
  3. Sc next stitch, 2 sc next stitch around. (24 sc)
  4. BLO sc in each stitch around. (24 sc)
  5. In both loops sc in each stitch around. (24 sc)
  6. Sc in each stitch around. (24 sc)
  7. Sc decrease in first two stitches, sc in next 10 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc next 10 stitches. (22 sc)
  8. Sc in each stitch around. (22 sc)
  9. Sc in next 5 stitches, sc decrease next two stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc in next 4 stitches. (20 sc)
  10. Sc in each stitch around. (20 sc)
  11. Sc decrease in first two stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc in next 8 stitches. (18 sc)
  12. Sc in each stitch around. (18 sc)
  13. Sc in next 4 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc in next 3 stitches. (16 sc)
  14. Sc in each stitch around. (16 sc)
  15. Sc decrease in first two stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, sc decrease in next two stitches, sc in next 6 stitches around. (14 sc)
  16. Sc in each stitch around. (14 sc)
  17. Repeat row 16 for 12 rows. Do not fasten off.
  18. Ch 2, sc in short faucet piece, sc in each chain back to long pipe, sc in long pipe.
  19. sc in each pipe piece with two sc in between for four rows total.
  20. Now working in rounds, sc evenly around for 5 rows. (You will be working around each pipe piece and going along the connecting rows.  this makes the pipe top)
  21. Sc around working 4 decreases on each pipe end.  You will be working the 4 decreases over 8 stitches on the pipe end.  This will be done on both pipe sides. (This creates the curved top)
  22. Sc around working 3 decreases on each pipe end.  So you will decrease over 6 stitches on each end.  (This will finish the curved top).  Fasten off, finish stuffing, sew closed.
  23. Surface slip stitch around short pipe in loops left to create a firm pipe edge.  Do the same around the leftover loops on the bottom of the pipe. 
  24. Sew two buttons on opposite sides of the bottom of the pipe.  Attach them as far on the edge of the pipe as you securely can. This add stability to the pipe so it isn’t so wobbly.

Now to assemble:

Place topper onto your cart.  Make sure that it is secure with velcro.  Place each piece onto topper where you would like it.  The faucet plate goes under the faucet and knobs over the sink.  Refer to the pictures for placement.  You can pin the pieces on as you sew them.  You will be sewing the burners, sink and faucet plate onto the topper.  After those pieces are sewn onto the topper button the knobs and faucet into place.  Button the faucet into the center of the plate first and then attach the knobs.  My buttons are about 7/8″.  To help the faucet be sturdier place veclro (prickly side) onto the cart around the faucet.  This holds the topper down firmly.  Also you can place some under the faucet and then put the soft side of velcro onto the faucet buttons (NOT THE KNOB BUTTONS).

Fill your kitchen with play food, plates, pans etc. and let their imaginations go wild.  My children are going to create a menu that we can laminate so that they can play restaurant 🙂

Please forgive any mistakes in the pattern.  If I find any or any are brought to my attention, I will do my best to correct them.  Please keep in mind I am a busy homeschooling mom, so corrections may not happen quickly, lol.

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